Yarns

Imperative!

When knitting an old pattern in a modern yarn, you MUST check your tension first if you hope to have the garment come out the size you planned. All patterns state the necessary tension requirements at the beginning of the pattern. Yes, it takes a little bit longer before you can get started, but it's worth it to get the size right. Imagine the disappointment when the garment you've put all that expense and effort into comes out the wrong size!

I have tried to make an inventory of all the old yarns used in Australia and a list of what is available in 2013. Hopefully, this will help you to select a suitable yarn for your vintage pattern.

An American customer has told me that in the US, the thickness of a yarn is not designated by the ply, but rather by the name "Fingering", "Sports Wool", etc. Can American readers please comment with more information on yarns so that I can add them to this page? Some information about British yarns and those from other countries would be great too.

Also, see the great info about vintage and modern yarns on Ravelry:
This is a fabulous website for resources for knitting and crochet.

Old Australian yarns and their equivalent ply:

(Modern  Australian yarns and their ply listed at the end)

Ladyship

• Ladyship 2 ply Scotch Fingering - "Suitable for light work - Shawls, Gloves, Gentleman's Summer Socks, &c., and for crochet work" (Book of Hows)
• Ladyship 3 ply Scotch Fingering - "A soft, good wearing wool of medium thickness, intended for intermediate wear, Cycling Stockings &c." (Book of Hows)
• Ladyship 4 & 5 ply Fingering - "A thoroughly reliable wool, soft and durable, made for knitting Stockings, Socks, Gloves, Jerseys &c. A large variety of patterns for Golfing and Shooting Stockings." (Book of Hows)
• Ladyship 4 & 5 ply Merino - A beautifully warm, soft and durable wool, for Shawls, Light Petticoats, Ladies' Stockings, Crossovers, Jackets &c." (Book of Hows).
• Ladyship 3 & 4 ply Vest Wool - "In light mixtures, Scarlet and White. Suitable, as the name implies, for Undervests, Pants, Combinations, Knee Caps &c." (Book of Hows)
• Ladyship 3 & 4 ply Super X Fingering - Recommended for Boys' Stockings, ad Socks, Tam o'Shanters, Gloves, Cardigan Jackets and Jerseys. A good wearing yarn." (Book of Hows)
• Ladyship Petticoat Wool - "Thick, warm, light wool, for Petticoats, Mufflers, Sweaters, Antimacassars, Counterpanes &c." (Book of Hows)
• Andalusian Wool - "For soft knitting purposes., combined with wear, such as Slippers, Scarves, Gloves, Cuffs, Babies' Shoes, Mittens, Socks, &c." (Book of Hows)
• Shetland Wool - Fine soft wool, 2 ply, made for crocheting Shawls, Crossovers, "Clouds", Thin Gloves. (Book of Hows).
• Ladyship Persian Wool - "Very fine wool, for Veils &c." (Book of Hows)
• Lady Betty Wool - "A beautifully soft and fine quality wool, suitable for Babies' wear, &c." (Book of Hows).
• Highland Soft Knitting Yarn - " In 2 oz. packets. A strong, fine yarn, Cord spun for wear." (Book of Hows).
• Golfandgun Wool - "A thick, soft, fine quality wool, in many suitable shades; manufactured, as the name implies, for knitting Stockings for Sportsmen, Cyclists, Golfers, &c." (Book of Hows).
• Ladyship Wheeling Yarn - "A thick, strong, durable yarn, for rougher use. Suitable for the same purpose as above, and for Fisherman's wear, Winter Bicycling, Stockings, Gloves, Jerseys, &c." (Book of Hows).

Lincoln Mills

• Lincoln Super Baby Wool – 3 ply,
•  Merino Baby Wool – 3ply
• DaphneCrochet Wool – 3 ply,
• Super Fingering 4ply
• Andalusian – 4 ply,
• Golden Wattle – 4 ply,
• Daphne Gold Knitting & Crochet Wool – 4 ply,
• Crepetta - 5 ply
• Triple Twist Daphne – 6 ply, "a soft, light twisted wool for cardigans, costumes etc." (ST)
• Thistledown Softspun,
• Twirlie, "superfine, fancy crepe wool." (ST)
• Waratah Double Crepe,
• Spira Boucle,
• Bonny Sports Wool,
• Front Line Comfort Wool, "heavy quality in plain colours." (ST)

Sunglo/Hughes/Twinprufe

• Twinprufe Baby Wool – 3 ply,
• Twinprufe Wool & Orlon – 3 ply,
• Twinprufe Double Crepe,
•  Kooba – 4 ply,
• Sunglo Knitting Wool – 3 & 4 ply,
• Sunglo Baby Wool, "soft, reliable wool." (ST)
• 

  

  Baby Shawl - 1940s

  Hughes Bulkyknit
• Viyella Knitting Yarn - 2, 3, 4 ply, "world famous for its amazing washing and wearing quality." (ST)

Eagley

• Super Fingering - 2 ply
• Cambridge - 3 ply
• Lady Marie - 3 ply
• Super Fingering - 3 & 4 ply
• Fingering – 4 ply
• Eagley Smartknit Crochet Wool
• Briar Sports Wool

Gibsonia

•  Giant Ball Wool – 2 ply, "a soft 2 ply for bed jackets, singlets etc." (ST)
• Big Ball Wool, "mixture of silk and wool for babies' woollies" (ST)
• Super Shetland – 2 ply,
• Tiny Tots - 3 ply,
• My Darling Baby Wool, "a super soft, cosy wool in sky blue, pink and white." (ST)
• Extra Super Fingering – 2, 3 & 4 ply,
• Andalusian – 4 ply,
• My Darling Baby Wool,
• Thistle – 4 ply,
• "Gibsonia white bather and jumper wool, specially shrunk, ideal for tennis and sports woollies." (ST)
• Sports Wool – 4 ply,
• Gold Label Sports Wool– 6 ply, "for all heavy military garments." (ST)
• Teasle Wool, "brushes up to a fleecy finish." (ST)
• Bokhara Rug Wool

Viyella

• Viyella Knitting Yarn – 2, 3 & 4 ply,
• Viyella Nursery Yarn – 3 ply

Patons (and Beehive)

(Comments from "Knitting For Excellence" (1950s), by Patons)

"Botany Wools - come from pure-bred Merino sheep, of which Australia is by far the biggest producing country. The softness and fineness of Botanies make them very suitable for underwear, babies' garments, and women's fashion styles.

Crossbred Wools - The fibres are rather stouter and therefore tougher, and, being less costly than Botany wools, are very popular for inexpensive garments which will stand really hard wear and rough usage. Knitwear for growing boys and girls, men's sportswear, socks and stockings, are all garments for which  crossbreds are perfectly suited. They are also popular for women's garments which are moderate in cost and lasting in wear.

Angoras - are spun from the fur of the Angora rabbit. They knit up into a fabric  with a unique combination of silky handle and furry surface. P & B Angoras are blended with a proportion of Botany wool; they are extraordinarily light in relation to the warmth they give." (KFE)

Shirt-waist Frock - 1939

• Lucelle Fine Ply - 1 ply, A very fine yarn which knits into a cashmere-like luxury garment at little cost." (WNK)
• Beehive Eider and Beehive Ivorine - "are fine threads specially suitable for shawls and dainty outdoor garments." (WPB)
• Beehive Fingering – 2, 3 & 4 ply, " A knitting wool of super quality to make garments of distinction - suitable for almost every purpose". (KFE) "is the all purpose family wool. Knits into a garment which is soft, light and warm." (WNK)
• Beehive Pearl Knit – 2 ply, "The firm twist has a strong appeal to many knitters of baby wear." (WNK)
• Beehive Shetland Floss  - 2 ply - "An excellent yarn for producing light coats, jumpers, or other outdoor and indoor wear for Women and Children" (WPB)
• Beehive Silversheen (wool and rayon) – 2 ply, "Has established a reputation  for underwear, bed jackets and babies' wear." (KFE) "A delightful fine yarn with an artificial silk thread. For babies' wear, bed jackets." (WNK) "A fine 2 ply thread containing a strand of Artificial Silk, makes charming garments for Children and is largely used for Ladies' fine underwear and shawls." (WPB)
•  White Heather Bouclet Yarn – 2 ply,

• Nimbla - 2 ply, "A fine crepe yarn for delightful, lacy, mid-seasons wear." (WNK)
• Will-O-The-Wisp Angora,
• Angora Layette Wool,
• Beryl Finespun Angora – 3 ply, "Luxurious and light for smart styling. Is lighter in weight than Fuzzy Wuzzy (similar in weight to 3 ply) The furry surface is always the same shade as the base." (KFE)
• Beehive Angora - "is the whitest and fluffiest of RABBIT WOOLS - ideal for babies' wear." (WPB
•  Beehive Baby Wool – 3 ply, " The very best for all babies' wear - a sterling quality for your treasure. It is also ideal for making ladies' dressing jackets and underwear." (KFE) "Super soft for baby." (WNK)
• Beehive Unshrinkable – 3 ply,
• Catkin Fleck yarn - 3 ply, "A triumph of the spinner's art. A knitting wool with contrasting flecks like lovely little catkins running through it. ...Specially suitable for ladies' classic knitwear." (KFE) "The cotton fleck on a smooth yarn makes for distinctive fashion wear." (WNK)
•  Heather Shetland – 3 ply,
•  Super Scotch Fingering – 2, 3 & 4 ply, "is evenly finished yarn of superb quality. It knits beautifully into Smart and Wearable Woollen Garments for ladies, and into Snug and Serviceable Woollies for children" (ELJ, Dec.1926)
• Super Wheeling
• Rose Fingering
• Purple Heather Fingering
• Super Wool – 2, 3 & 4 ply,
• Lady Betty – 2 & 3 ply, "Famed for its fine quality for making underwear, dressing jackets, babies' garments, etc." (KFE) "The finest and softest yarn made for all garments worn nest to delicate skin." (WNK) "The softest wool available for babies' wear." (WPB)
• 

  

  Giselle Bedjacket -1940s

  Baby Orlon – 3 ply,
• May Queen - 3 ply, "This new fine-textured fancy wool - similar in weight to 3 ply - has a distinctive and decorative appearance. A Bouclet yarn with a difference...lovely to look at, delightful to wear."(KFE)
• Swiftaknit Botany,
• Beehive Crepe - 3 ply, "is made in a weight equivalent to 3 ply. The firm crepe twist creates a clean, crisp fabric particularly suitable for suits, dresses, skirts and fashion wear." (KFE) "Famed for the crisp, clean fashion fabric it produces." (WNK)
• Soft Touch,
• Azalea  Crochet and Knitting Wool – 3 ply, " A beautiful, smooth, lustrous 2 ply, made in a weight equivalent to 3 ply. Excels for interesting stitches and fabrics for children's, ladies' and men's outerwear. Range of 65 fashionable shades for round-the-clock wear". (KFE) "A beautiful mooth yarn with a firm crochet twist." (WNK)
• Sock Wool -  4 ply, "It is spun from fine selected crossbred wools - the perfect sock wool. Excellent for knitting socks, boys' pullovers, etc." (KFE)
• Fireside Fingering - 4 ply, "A strong-wearing quality suitable for men's and boys' garments where hard wear is required." (KFE)
• Patonyle - 3 & 4 ply, "The wool gives softness, the nylon gives great wear for outerwear, socks, gloves etc." (WNK)
• Patona – 4 ply,
• Andalusian – 4 ply,
• Rose Fingering – 4 ply, "is very firm in texture. It is ideal for knitted outer-garments, and gives the maximum of hard, every-day wear without losing the shapely smartness which is so desirable in Woollen Wear". (ELJ), December 1926
•  Basra (rug making)– 4 ply, "most reliable quality and ideal for strong garments and rugmaking." (ST)
• Sylvia Wool - "is an intimate blend of Angora Fur with Artificial Silk. Simply delightful for babies' garments." (WPB)
•  Fuzzy Wuzzy Angora – 4 ply, "Caressingly soft and featherweight. White fur on a coloured base is characteristic of most of the shades. Lovely to wear for dating, dining and dancing - children love it for party wear." (KFE) "Featherweight and fur soft for low cost luxury garments." (WNK)
• Ladybird Fancy Fleck Wool,
• Kingfisher Lustre Wool - 3 & 4 ply - "A bright thread composed of Wool and Artificial Silk, is eminently suitable  for indoor and Children's wear. Fabric made from it combines  the sheen of silk with the warmth and elasticity of wool. It wears and washes splendidly". (WPB)
• May Queen Lustre Wool - "Another charming combination of Artificial Silk and Wool, has similar properties to those of [Kingfisher] , with a slightly boucle effect." (WPB)
• Cyntilla Lustre Wool - 3 & 4 ply - "This is an intimate mixture of wool and Artificial silk. It possesses a pleasant touch  and has a beautiful sheen." (WPB)
• Bramble Fingering - "Produces a "crepe-like" fabric and, being made entirely from wool, is very suitable for outdoor wear." (WPB)
• Bluebell Crepe - 5 ply, "Equivalent to 5 ply. For those who like something warmer. Quick to knit and lovely to wear." (KFE)
• Swiftaknit Botany Wool - 5 ply, "The newest, softest, quickly knitted yarn for babies, children and adults." (WNK)
• Cairn Fingering - 5 ply, "A thick, hard-wearing, crossbred wool for economy knitting." (WNK)
• Highland Sports Wool - 5 ply, "Is a thick wool with a fascinating fleck which knits up quickly into warm, substantial sweaters, outerwear, etc." (KFE) "A thick, woollen, sports yarn with a fascintating Tweed fleck." (WNK)
• Moorland Sports Wool - 2 and 3 ply - "Makes excellent garments for outdoor wear, being "woolly" in handle and "tweedy" in its colourings." (WPB)
• Glen Tweed Yarn - 5 ply, "Quickly knitted into fashionable tweeds." (WNK)
•  Dunora Knitting Wool,
•  Easycare,  
• Bri-Nylon Double Quick Knitting,
• Double Quick Knitting - 6 ply, "Quickly knitted into thick, long-lasting woollies." (WNK)
• Cycle Double Knitting
•  Big Ben Crepe,
• Big Ben Sparkle,
• Katie – 6 ply,
• Totem Knitting Wool - 6 ply,*** "A heavier crepe - equivalent in thickness to a sports wool. It will wear and wear, and wear, and it has the added advantage of really speedy knitting." (KFE) "Famous for outstanding wear and is quick to knit." (WNK)
• Sea Urchin,
•  L'Amour,
• Sunspun,
• Mayfair,
• Patex Boucle,
• White Heather Boucle Yarn,
• Netta, "a new crepe finish wool." (ST)
• Nylette Crepe,
• Caressa,
• Brushed Caressa,
• Blanket Wool - 7 ply, " A bulky knitting wool, quick to knit. Suitable for babies' blankets, pram covers, ladies' bedjackets etc." (KFE) "For pram and cot covers and garments where a warm, bulky, soft result is needed." (WNK)
• Lustrelle Triple Knitting,
• Zinnia Military Wool, "heavy wool for scarves, socks etc." (ST)
• Treasure - 8 ply,
• Teazle Wool - "This distinctive material is largely used for children's sets and outdoor garments. The surface of the fabric can, if required, be easily given a fur-like nap by means of the special Teazle Brush." (WPB)
• Mohair Brushed Knitting Yarn,
• Heydey Sports Shower Proof - 8 ply, "Is a heavyweight wool for making garments for winter sports, yachting and for those who have to be about in the chilly hours." (KFE) "Has a showerproof finish for thick outdoor garments." (WNK)
• Husky,
• Tyrol Sports Wool,
• Jet Tripleknit – 12 ply,
• Ariel,
• Turkey Rug Wool - " a 6 ply thread of the SMYRNA type, is the most popular of all such materials. It is supplied in a fine range of art shades along with designs, stencilled canvases and all accessories." (WPB)
• Beehive Rig Wool - "a 2 ply Cable quality, is heavier and more lustrous than the Smyrna type but is well-liked and produces a very thick and glossy pile." (WPB)

Some suggestions for modern yarn equivalents:

Yarns  currently available in Australia:

2 ply

Patons Embrace - Released September 2012 - 90% merino wool, 10% silk.  - warm hand wash
Patons Dreamtime Baby Wool - 2 ply - 100% merino Wool - warm hand wash

Shepherd Baby Wool Merino 2 ply - 100% merino wool - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

3 ply

Patons Dreamtime Baby Wool - 3 ply - 100% merino wool - warm hand wash

Patons Big Baby 3 ply - 60 % acrylic, 40% nylon - warm gentle machine wash

Shepherd Baby Wool Merino 3 ply - 100% merino wool - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Lincraft Lullaby - wool

4 ply

Patons Patonyle - 80% merino wool, 20 % nylon - warm hand wash

Patons Big Baby 4 ply - 60% acrylic, 40% nylon - warm gentle machine wash
Cleckheaton Merino Bambino - 100% merino wool - hand wash or gentle machine wash
Panda Magnum Baby Soft 4 ply - 100% acrylic - warm hand wash or gentle machine wash

Panda Regal - 100% mercerised cotton - warm hand wash

Shpherd Baby Wool Merino 4 ply - 100% merino wool - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Blossom Layette - 1940s

5 ply

Patons Classic Bluebell - 100% wool - warm hand wash

8 ply

Patons Dreamtime Baby Wool  8 ply - 100% merino wool - warm hand wash

Patons Big Baby 8 ply - 60% acrylic, 40% nylon - warm gentle machine wash

Patons Classic Totem - 100% wool - warm hand wash

Patons Totem Marl - 100% wool - marled shades of Totem - warm hand wash
Patons London - 75% acrylic, 25 % wool  - hand wash only

Patons Romance - 90% merino wool, 10% cashmere - hand wash only

Cleckheaton Country - 100% wool - gentle machine wash

Cleckheaton Country Tartan - 100% wool - gentle machine wash

Cleckheaton Country Naturals - 85% wool, 10% acrylic, 5 % viscose - gentle machine wash

Cleckheaton Country Vintage Blends - 100% wool - Based on a 1965 shade card - hand wash or gentle  

Major Jumper - 1940s

                machine wash

Cleckheaton Country Wide - 100% wool - gentle machine wash

Cleckheaton Merino Angora SIlk - 80% merino wool, 10% angora, 10% silk - cool hand wash only

Cleckheaton Perfect Day - 70% merino wool, 30% alpaca - warm hand wash

Panda Cotton Blend - 50% cotton blend, 50% acrylic - hand wash or gentle machine wash

Panda Crazy Print - 100% acrylic - warm gentle machine wash
Panda Lyscot - 

Panda Feltable Wool - 100% wool - warm hand wash only

Panda Magnum 8 ply - 100% acrylic - warm hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Panda Magnum Soft 8 ply - 100% acrylic - warm hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Panda Magnum Glimmer - Metallic glimmer yarn - 96% acrylic, 4 % polyester - hand wash only

Panda Magnum Twist - Two tone twist marl - 100% acrylic - warm hand wash or gentle machine wash

Shepherd Baby Wool Merino 8 ply - 100% merino wool - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Shepherd Colour 4 Me - 100% wool - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

Shepherd Colour 4 Me Prints - Multi-coloured strands - hand wash or warm gentle machine wash

12 ply

Patons Jet - 70% wool, 30% alpaca - hand wash only
Cleckheaton Wool Mohair - 60% wool, 40% mohair - warm hand wash only

Charming Hat -1930s

Undetermined ply

Patons Inca - 50% wool, 30% acrylic, 20% alpaca - hand wash only

Patons Allure - 67% acrylic, 33% polyester - hand wash only

Patons Sorrento - 62% viscose, 38% cotton - hand wash only

Patons Wilderness - 70% wool, 20% acrylic, 10% viscose - hand wash only

Patons Zhivago - 50% tencel, 50% acrylic - Designed for home wares - warm hand wash

Cleckheaton Bamboo - 100% bamboo - warm hand wash

Panda Sparkles - New in October 2012 - Craft yarn -  68% polyester, 32% metalised polyester - warm hand  

                        wash only

Panda B.I.G. - 50% wool, 50% acrylic - hand wash only

Panda Lyscot - 100% mercerised cotton - warm hand wash

Panda Sashay - "A little glimmer and glamour" - Acrylic and polyester - warm hand wash only
Panda Teddy Fur - "Fur" look finish - 96% acrylic, 4 % nylon -

Lincraft Cosy Wool

Lincraft Celtic Yarn

Lincraft Elicia

Lincraft Winter Warmth

Vera Moda Mousse - 70% wool, 30% soya

Patons, Cleckheaton, Panda and Shepherd are all owned by Australian Country Spinners. See their website for more yarn information and patterns. http://www.auspinners.com.au/

This site also gives the tension required for all these yarns,  as well as the recommended needle size, so is especially useful for finding modern alternatives to old yarns in vintage patterns.


References:
Book of Hows - The Book of "Hows" or What May Be Done With Wool In Every Home, Baldwin & Walker, Halifax, England (1900-1916)

(ELJ) - Everylady's Journal
(KFE) - Knitting For Excellence, by Patons (1950s)
(ST) - Sunday Times Newspaper, Perth, 24th March, 1940, on Trove http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/58969601
(WNK) - What's New in Knitting, by Patons, 1958.
(WPB) - Woolcraft: A Practical Guide to Knitting and Crochet: Patons & Baldwins; Alloa & Halifax; 193-