1920s



Fashion in the 1920s was characterised by:

1920-1924

Women's Clothing

Chanel revolutionises women's fashion

• Skirts swathed or tiered
• Hats bags and belts often embroidered in metallic thread
• Twin sets
• Crocheted lace
• Leather belts
• Sailor pants
• Short evening dresses
• Relaxed coats with pockets
• Tailored suits
• Asexual smocks
• Harem pantaloons
• Filet crochet



Crocheted cloche hat from 1923

• "Silhouette: Elongated, shapeless, lower waistline, shorter skirt.
• Bodice: Unfitted tube to low waist, over unboned corset.
• Neckline: Various V-shapes, boat-shaped, low round.
• Sleeves: Kimono, raglan, dolman, long inset gathered into cuffs.
• Skirt: Ankle, mid-calf and below knee length; straight, flared
• Fabric: Silk and wool jersey, crepe-de-chine, silk georgette.
• Trimmings: Fur, embroidered ribbon, beaded and sequinned embroidery.
• Colour: Bright, emerald green, acid yellow, royal blue, purple or pale and natural.
• Accessories: Large hats with drooping brims, brimless cloches, short gloves, small bags with chain handles, lightweight shoes."
•                                               (Peacock)

1925-1929

"Silhoette: Long, shapeless, low waist, no bust, short skirt.
Bodice : Unfitted tube to hip level.
Neckline: V-shaped, low round, cowl.
Sleeves: Kimono, raglan, dolman, some sleeveless models.
Skirt: From 1925: just below the knee; from 1929: longer or uneven hems, handkerchief points.
Fabric: Silk and wool jersey, crepe-de-chine, silk georgette, satin.
Trimmings: Fur, monkey fur, large buttons, all-over sequin embroidery.
Colour: Bright pure, pale, subdued, dramatic combinations.
Accessories: Cloche hats, small bags, clutch bags, long glass bead necklaces and earrings, silk stockings, lightweight shoes."
                                                                                                             (Peacock)

• Skirts the shortest of the decade - just below the knee
• Very long necklaces
• Evening dresses as short as day dresses, but silk, lame, fringed, intricate embroidery, beading, paillettes
• Cocktail dresses born
• Bright colours
• By 1927, hemlines are starting to become longer again
• Boyish, angular look going out of fashion
• Return to softer, more feminine fashions spearheaded by Chanel
• Lanvin - feminine embroidery
• Vionnet - flowing dresses cut on the bias

1928

• Men's haircuts for women
• Men's smoking jackets for women
• Blazers worn with pleated skirts
• Women's shirts worn with ties and cuff links

1929

• Wall Street crash - skirts are longer again

Underwear & Sleepwear

• Linen and light wool replaced by crepe de chine
• Brassiere is designed to flatten
• Usually all in one.
• Suspenders often attached to one piece underwear.
• Bedjackets and dressing jackets.

Bathing Suits

• Early 20s - Tunic top, with or without collar. Square or V-neckline, with bloomers.
• Late 20s - Shorts to upper thigh - tank top

Accessories

• Wide brimmed hat in the early 20s and late 20s.
• Cloche hats worn low to almost cover the eyes
• Flesh coloured silk stockings
• Berets
• Lots of bangles
• Very long necklaces
• Costume jewellery
• 
  Dressing Jacket - 1920s
  

Jewellery of bone, wood, shell & mock jade pre-dated Chanel's costume jewellery

Cigarette holders

Shoes with pointed toes.

Hair & Make-Up

• Hair was cut short in a bob
• By 1927, extremely short hair no longer in fashion
• Women were starting to use make-up
• Headbands
•  
  

  

  Silk Bonnet - 1923

  Dutch boy hairdos
• Face powder and cosmetics commercially available
• Tanned skin

 

 

 

Baby Clothes

• Still clothed in traditional designs
  

  

  Filet Crochet Bib - 1927

• Silk was commonly used

• Special bibs were made in filet crochet

Men

• Unpadded shoulders
• Narrower sleeves and trouser legs
• Trouser legs cuffed and creased
• Jackets shorter
• Lapels longer
• "military high waist"
• belts and pleating disappeared
• patch pockets replaced by slash pockets
• Soft shirts
• Sports jackets
• Plus fours
• White waistcoat worn with a tuxedo

Accessories

• Brown suede shoes
• Red ties
• Panama hat
• Ties with a Windsor knot
• Coloured pocket handkerchief
• Butterfly bow tie
• Long tie with sailor's knot
• Oxfords replaced high-buttoning shoes
• Wristwatch replaced the pocket watch

Bathing Suits

• Shorts to upper thigh - tank top

1. Reference: "Fashion: The Mirror of History", by Michael and Ariane Batterberry, 1982, London, Columbus Books
2. "20th Century Fashion: The Complete Sourcebook", by John Peacock; 1993; London; Thames and Hudson, p.227.
3. Thank you to Patons for permission to use their images